San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

I now understand why one travel magazine listed San Miguel de Allende as one of the top ten places to visit in the world. The city welcomes you with a warm embrace, with sun painting the earth-toned buildings, taxis driving down narrow cobblestone streets, people talking and laughing from the rooftops. Our apartment is in the middle of a hill to the west of downtown, from our rooftop terrace we can see views of the churches and magnificent Parroquia.

As soon as we settled into our apartment, we went for a walk, exploring this city that 2,000 expats call home.

The houses and apartments are all interconnected, you never know what you'll find behind each wall, each midevil door.I almost cried when I first laid eyes on the Parroquia, it was so stunning as the sun turned it red. Sometimes I don't know how things can be so beautiful, I have to look twice to make sure they are real.

We found a restaurant nearby, hidden within the arches of a colonial building, which played jazz music, the entire roof made of windows. We had flank steak tacos and a Mexican soup called Fideo, or Vermicelli. When we were finished eating we went back into the main "Jardin", to find a live marimba band playing in the gazebo, people of all colors, shapes and sizes grooving to the beat.

Even David and I joined the festivities and did a salsa dance in the shadow of the Parroquia, and yes, it really does have a shadow. (inside joke)

This is an amazing, magical place. Even Mexicans flock here every weekend to enjoy the restaurants, bars, Jardin, and views of the Parroquia. I don't feel awkard here being the only one with the camera.
As night falls, the streetlights cast an eerie glow on cobblestones, watch your step!

This isn't only a tourist destination, or a vacation, but a lifestyle we're experiencing here. People move from the frantic hustle and bustle of the United States to learn Spanish, take photography classes, do yoga, write, meditate, and just "be". In just a few minutes I'm going back up to the rooftop terrace to watch the sun settle on the land like a blanket, and just read and relax.

This is so far removed from the violence of the drug cartels on the border. I feel like I'm in paradise here, in the middle of Mexico.

Queretaro Slideshow with Music

For this post, I am trying something new. I put a slideshow of our photos from this morning in Queretaro, plus the beautiful violin playing in La Plaza de Armas.

The video below is okay, but I'm going to include this link, if you prefer to watch it in Windows Media Player, where it will be crisper and bigger:

http://www.mydeo.com/videorequest.asp?XID=4864&CID=246202

We arrived safely at our apartment in San Miguel de Allende, and it's perfect. We walked up to the rooftop patio, complete with a chaise lounge and table, and views of magnificent churches. Here is what David said immediately:

"I would move here."

I would also move here in a second. It's magical, relaxing, the houses and rooftops connected among narrow, cobblestone streets. I'm in love already. But more on that tomorrow....

Beautiful, beautiful Queretaro

I'm sitting at an outdoor coffee shop right now, staring into the Plaza de Armas. Trees are cut into perfect shapes, the bottoms of the trunks painted white. There are several plazas here with fountains in the middle, gathering places for the people of the city. Each cafe has its own music, so I'm sitting in the middle of an eclectic blend of rock and classical.

Queretaro is made up of winding pedestrian walkways, with cubby hole restaurants, cafes and shops. Our hotel overlooks one of these tiny streets, and we can see churches and billowing purple bougenvillea outside.

Below are a couple of views from our balcony.

We walked around the city streets during magic hour, trying to capture the magical feeling of this town, which pops with color.

David blends in, but the Mexicans here are completely taken off guard when he doesn't speak a word of Spanish. They often look at me with a confused expression as I translate between the two.

Behind me below is an Aztec statue. One thing I've noticed about Mexico is how much they honor their ancestors. Even their money features faces of prominent Aztec leaders. This is like if American money featured Chief Seattle, or Chief Joseph. I guess the Indian heritage is a bigger part of these people, although their architecture and language reflects Spain.

Below is one of the famous churches in town, which borders a huge "jardin", with well-manicured plants and benches were people eat ice cream and chat. It's very communal here, with people gathering in central places, to be together. I love seeing the families, the "novios", holding hands and snuggling.
There is a huge gazebo in the middle of this public square, where you'll see David standing below.

Darkness is falling, and David and I stop at yet another public plaza to watch a water in a fountain dancing to American music. Vendors sell balloons and cotton candy. Then it's back to our little street.

Now, it's time to party, so David and I head to one of the bars on a little street. There are lots of "half bands" here, which is recorded music, and then a person singing, or playing the drums, or the trumpet, or whatever. We had a blast!

La Condesa

I am sitting in a beautiful coffee shop right now, with large, ornate windows and a door open to the outside. I feel the breeze on my face, a perfect temperature common in Seattle's summertime. Someone is playing Spanish guitar, and people around me are chatting, drinking coffee and eating quiche and juevos rancheros. This also doubles as a bookstore, so all around are tall bookshelves filled with Harry Potter, Suze Orman and other popular authors. The tables are small, the chairs wicker, and I'm sitting on the second floor.

Part of our trip is just about relaxing, not always running around to see the next sight. I enjoy my days in coffee shops, just being around the locals. In a little while we will catch a bus to Queretaro. I want to take the "luxury" bus, which costs about $18 per person one way. It has 24 reclining seats, individual televisions, and refreshments. Mexico doesn't have a train system, but the bus system here is amazing.

Our hosts at the apartment La Casa Roma DF were just wonderful. Edgar was so knowledgable about all the cool spots to hang out, and told us how to use the subway system. Celia cooked the most amazing breakfasts full of fruit and Mexican food. Today was fried potatoes, black beans, avocado and tomato. The coffee was french pressed and deliciously thick and flavorful.

Mexico City: Sightseeing Day 1

We took the subway this morning to El Centro Historico, where there are many sights to behold. Below is a picture of me with an old Spanish Cathedral. In front of that is a huge Zocalo, or square, with buildings on all sides. Looks just like a square you'd see in Brussels, Belgium.

On the other side is El Palacio Nacional, which is a beautiful government building filled with pictures from Diego Rivera.

Below is a ballroom that's in El Palacio Nacional.

Then we went outside and encountered a bunch of Aztecs dancing to the beat of a drum in full costume.

Then on to look at El Templo Mayor, which is part of the ancient Aztec civilization, smack in the middle of Mexico City.

Then we walked through crowded streets to El Palacio De Bellas Artes. Can you see me in the below picture?

After walking a billion blocks after this, searching for a spot to eat, we finally found a shaded outdoor patio where we could watch everyone go by.

Here are Chilaquiles, which was an AMAZING lunch. Fried tortillas, spicy green sauce, chicken and onions.

Finally, we rested our feet in La Parque Chapultapec, which is a gigantic park in the middle of Mexico City.

I think I've posted enough photos for the day! Right now we're taking a "siesta". It's 630pm and still sunny outside, seems like the days are so much longer here. I think the sun is now starting to go down, and it will probably be fully dark by 730pm. It feels like summer!

Tomorrow we will be taking a bus to Queretaro, where I lived for 3 months back in 2001.

Ya Llegamos!

The first thing I noticed about Mexico City was the smog, the second, the never-ending sprawl, and third, the vibrant colors. We flew low over the city, and I could see apartment buildings in reds, yellows, blues. It was really a sight to behold.

We got through customs without a hitch and immediately took a cab to our little bed and breakfast, which is actually a room inside a guy's apartment in the chic La Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City. The room is all white, with hardwood floors and fresh flowers. Our host, Edgar, is very gracious and kind, and told us the best area to go walk around. La Casa Roma Guesthouse is only $56 dollars per night.

I didn't bring my camera as we went to the trendy street, it was dark and I didn't want to look TOO much like a tourist, although my blond hair and pasty skin gives it away. The street reminded me of Europe, with sidewalk cafes, an outdoor wine and pizza bar with well-dressed patrons listening to American pop. We had dinner outside, where I ordered shrimp (then remembered with a gasp that's what mad Travis sick in Puerto Vallarta, but luckily this morning I feel fine.) The shrimp weirded me out a little cause it had the entire body, head and legs, which I had to cut off. David had chicken soup, and then this interesting dish of friends, a sunnyside-up egg, roasted red peppers, and sausage. It was delicious. After eating we went to a couple bars to check out "the scene." It's so vibrant and happening, I'm so glad we stayed in this area.

We woke up this morning and a Senora cooked us an amazing breakfast. We started with fresh fruit, then toast, then she made us some bean enchiladas with queso fresco, and a warm, peppered zucchini dish. Really a bargain to include breakfast in the price of the room. Today we are going sightseeing, so I'll definately be taking more pictures of the city and neighborhood.

It's bright, sunny, and beautiful here. I looked at the sky and don't see a hint of smog today, which is good. I felt a little light-headed yesterday due to the altitude, but other than that, I'm having a blast!

Hasta Luego!

Raunchy, raunchy bus

I often get the delight on the bus of sitting next to someone totally disgusting. I feel a little mean passing judgement like that, but its true. Today at the bus stop this scruffy, crusty guy was talking to himself while waiting in the covered bus stop. Sure enough, he plops right down on the seat next to me, immediately assaulting my nostrils with dreadful fumes. It smelled like a combination of burnt coffee, and body odor that hasn't been tending to in days. I tried to close off my nostrils the best I can and breath out of my mouth, looking like one of those scary "mouth breathers."

After this weirdo exited the bus, another one took his place, but luckily, she wasn't sitting near me. She talked the entire trip, and I couldn't even tell what she was saying. She was a heavy black woman, with cream-colored palms and a huge suitcase. I wondered where she was going, her life story, what she was talking about. I wondered what it would have been like being born into her body and family history rather than mine.

Coworkers have told me horror stories about the bus, since as people getting up, and having the entire seat covered with urine. Public transportation is nice, and good for the environment, but can also be very repulsive. Who wants to smell poop on the way home from work? Any takers?

One reason I'm so in love with the Bainbridge Island ferry is the clientelle. This is still public transportation, but I feel like I belong here. I never feel worried, or threatened. Everyone who rides this boat seems to be of a professional background. In one way its safe, its comfortable, its people "like me". On the other hand, it's bland. I am glad I have those other colorful characters in my life, to keep me grounded.